Soil♯

The sashimi platter ordered first included raw octopus, giant cuttlefish, sea bream cured with kombu, greater amberjack and bluefin tuna: 5 varieties in all. One diner’s account says the octopus grew sweeter the more it was chewed, while a little salt brought out the cuttlefish’s distinctive flavour. The sea bream had taken on the savoury taste of the kombu; the greater amberjack offered both richness and a firm texture; and the bluefin tuna combined lean meat with a lingering note of fat. Each made for a different kind of pleasure. The sake chosen to go with the sashimi was Ippaku Junmai Nama. The menu describes it as restrained in aroma, soft on the palate, rich yet refreshing—a candidate for a meal where the fish takes centre stage but the sake matters, too.

Another striking option is the rare-fried bluefin tuna. One diner found the coating light and thin and the tuna inside tender, with salt and citrus bringing out its savoury flavour. The menu also lists squid menchi and fried shrimp and stonefish shinjo, a dumpling made with fish paste. For fried seafood, there is a choice of styles: cutlet, menchi, or shinjo served with broth. Those looking for a more substantial meal might also consider seared ichibo, a cut from the rump. One visitor particularly enjoyed the balance of lean meat and fat, as well as the contrast between the browned surface and rare centre. The menu lists Nagai Seared Ichibo, offering a meat dish to add between courses of seafood.

For a serving of vegetables, one diner’s description of the steamed vegetables may be useful. The assortment included leafy greens and root vegetables; the diner recalled their natural sweetness, the crisp texture of the salad served underneath and the seasoning of spices. An organic vegetable salad is also listed, giving diners another way to add vegetables to the meal. Alongside Ippaku, the sake menu includes Zaku Honotomo, with a clean finish, and Gomon Kamakura Shichiyo, described as slightly dry with a fruit-like aroma. Beer and wine are available as well, so there are several drinks to choose from with sashimi or fried dishes.

The interior, in a machiya townhouse renovated in a contemporary style, includes counter seating, and the restaurant is also used for group meals. Soil♯ can suit dinner alone or a meal shared over several dishes. Reservations are recommended for dinner.